RaphaelSewing Blog

Confused about what type of industrial sewing machine you need? Machines can be categorized under a number of different feed types. The following are the more common types:

Drop Feed / Regular feed

Drop feed a.k.a. regular feed is the most common feed system. This system incorporates a “feed dog”which is a mechanical surface with teeth that helps transport the material by dropping and then rising beneath it.

Examples of Drop Feed Machines:  Techsew 8500, Juki 8700, Techsew 20U, Techsew 810, Techsew GA5-1

Needle Feed

In a needle feed system, the needle itself feeds the material as well as the feed dog. This helps prevent multiple layers of material from slipping off each other.

Examples of Needle Feed Machines: Pfaff 142, Pfaff 542, Singer 212

Compound Feed / Compound Walking-Foot

Compound feed machines are a combination of needle feed and drop feed, and also feature alternating presser feet. Compound feed machines are used mostly for projects such as auto and marine upholstery, awnings and sails.

Examples of Compound Feed Machines: Consew 206, Techsew 106, Techsew 2603, Techsew 2605

Drop Feed Walking-Foot

Drop feed walking-foot machines feature a drop feed as well as alternating presser feet.

Examples of Drop Feed Walking-Foot machines: Techsew 0302, Techsew 2301, Juki 141, Consew 277,
Techsew GB6-180-2

Industrial sewing machines are equipped with one of two types of sewing machine motors: the Servo motor, and the Clutch motor. Here’s some advice on which one is best for you and your sewing projects.

Servo Motor

The two major advantages of the Servo sewing motor are that you can control the speed of the motor (adjustable between o-3300RPM) and that they are completely silent when the pedal is not engaged.

Some other advantages include:

• They consume 63% less energy than clutch motors
• 1/3 lighter than clutch motors
• Reverse motor rotation with the flick of a switch
• Nothing to wear or adjust
• Adjusted speed remains no matter how hard the pedal is pressed

Many of our customers find that the sewing machine is much easier to control with a Servo motor because of the variable speed. This is especially helpful for beginner sewers but also for users sewing light to medium-weight leather up to a thickness of 5/16″.

The standard Servo motor features 1/2HP. There is also the option of a 3/4HP Servo motor, which provides more power for sewing materials up to 3/8″ thickness.

Clutch Motor

The main advantage of the Clutch motor is power. Clutch motors are available in 1725 RPM and 3450RPM, 1/2HP or 3/4HP. It is recommended that users sewing heavy materials up to 3/4″ use a 3/4HP clutch motor due to the higher punching power than the Servo motor.

For projects that include heavy material such as for saddles, harnesses, leashes and other thick materials, I recommend the use of a clutch motor. However, if you are looking to sew projects such as leather jackets, clothing, upholstery work, or any other projects requiring slower precision sewing, I recommend the Servo motor.

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Raphael,
RaphaelSewing.com

Something that is far too often overlooked by many shop owners is the proper maintenance of sewing machines to prevent damages, extend the use of the machine, protect the investment and ensure that the quality of their production remains high. Here are a couple of important tips for keeping your industrial sewing machine well maintained:

Important: Make sure to turn off all power and unplug the machine before cleaning.

Oiling

Self-Oiling Machines: Completely replace all the oil at least once per year for average users, 2-3 times per year for more frequent users. Self-oiling machines include all serger/overlock machines, straight sewers and coverstitch machines.

Manual-Oiling Machines: For all other industrial sewing machines, make sure to oil the machine once to twice a month for average users, and once every 5 hours of operation for frequent users. Place several drops of oil into the holes in the machine head (some are marked by a dot of paint) as well as on all other moving parts, gears and bushing (long pipe under machine head). Use only clear white sewing machine oil.

Needles

It is nearly impossible to see when a needle is worn out by just looking at it. The sewing machine needle should be replaced every 2 weeks for frequent users or once a month for average users. Failure to replace the sewing needle can lead to a number of problems including uneven stitches, broken thread, skipped stitches and tension problems.

Screws

Due to the vibration that occurs when using your sewing machine, some screws may become loose over time. Grab a screwdriver and tighten all screws during every maintenance.

Remove Lint + Stray Threads

With a pair of tweezers and a small brush, remove all stray threads and lint from the faceplate, bobbin case and hook area.

Overall Cleaning

A damp cloth should be used to wipe any dust or dirt from the surface of the machine head and surrounding area.

Cover Up!

When the sewing machine is not in use, use a plastic cover to protect the machine head from dust and dirt.

Make a habit of maintaining your industrial sewing machine often so to keep it in proper and safe condition. Also, take it for a general tuneup every 2 years or so to make sure the gears, hook, and other general parts are in safe condition.

Ron,
RaphaelSewing.com

Ever wonder which needle sizes to use with your thread? Here’s a useful chart to help you out.

Click HERE to download a high resolution printable version of this chart.

Ron,
RaphaelSewing.com

A growing trend on eBay these days is the market for sewing machines advertised as “industrial strength”, which features steel or metal domestic sewing machines modified to sew leather, canvas, vinyl and denim. Compared with an industrial sewing machine, which one is best for your needs?

Industrial Strength, Semi-Industrial, Heavy Duty

Typically, machines listed as “industrial strength”, “semi-industrial” and “heavy-duty” feature built in sewing machine motors with a foot pedal control, metal or plastic gears, sew a straight stitch and some have reverse stitch and/or zigzag features. Most of the industrial strength machines found on eBay are vintage domestic sewing machines from the 70s-80s or Singer machines from the 20s-50s and have been modified by changing the foot, foot lift height and needle size to sew layered materials.

The most convenient feature of these machines of course is the portability which allows us to sew pretty much anywhere we find an electrical outlet (convenient for bringing along on boats and RV’s for quick repairs of equipment, sails etc…). Also, they don’t take up a lot of space or make too much noise so they can be used anywhere around the house.

As for what they are able to sew – this is where you have to be careful. Industrial strength machines can indeed sew several layers of leather, canvas and denim but over time, the machine will experience difficulty and slow down because they were not designed to do heavy work over long periods of time. Many sellers tend to exaggerate the capability of their industrial strength machines and you should take their claims with a grain of salt.

Industrial Sewing Machines

Industrial sewing machines made by Singer, Consew, Techsew, Juki, Pfaff and others are typically bigger than industrial strength sewing machines, and are mounted on a power stand with an industrial sewing motor, foot pedal, lamp, thread-stand and bobbin winder. The key factors with industrial sewing machines are speed, consistency and power.

Clothing manufacturers, leather workers, upholsterers, tailors and other professionals use industrial sewing machines equipped with a 1725RPM or 3450RPM 1/2HP motor which features more speed, power and most importantly the ability to sew sturdier leather and heavier fabrics. Industrial sewing machines usually sew up to 3000 stitches per minute whereas industrial strength machines usually sew around 600-700 stitches per minute.

Obviously size and portability are an issue with industrial sewing machines, but if you’re serious about manufacturing for even a home-based business, industrial sewing machines are the way to go.

Mike,
RaphaelSewing.com